2006 Honda Cbr 1000rr Drag Bike on 2040-motos

Honda CBR description

2006 Honda CBR 1000RR Drag Bike.   Build for street riding and the occasional drag strip weekend.  Lowered but not too much for the street.  The footpegs (rearsets) are 4 inches lower making it much more comfortable for longer rides.  I only ride it on the street and have brought it to the strip once and made 2 easy runs to dial in the air ahifter.  Also never street raced it. 

This model had an MSRP of about $13-14,000 and it has about $6,000 in parts added to it all with 1,000 miles or under on them. I can provide receipts for most of them.  All look and perform like brand new.  The factory paint also looks brand new and bike has never been dropped or wrecked.

I built it to look like a Pro Street class bike.  The wheelbase is adjustable all the way back to 16 inches over stock with a McIntosh aluminum swingarm with integrated air tank.  The current chain and Sidewinder lifetime warranty sprocket with +4 teeth goes back to 15 inches over stock length. 

Starting from the front:  Forks are internally lowered and machined with half of their travel taken out.  I believe it had 5 inches of travel stock and now has 2.5 with spacers and stronger springs.

Flush mount turn signals and mirror block-off plates.  Mirrors come with the bike to the new owner.

Scotts rotary steering damper. 

Footpegs lowered 4 inches by moving top of V bracket to bottom V bracket hole in frame and then I welded tabs onto the frame and drilled and tapped holes into the new tabs for the lower V mount.  This made the riding position much more comfortable and made it possible to add an air ahifter.  Also powdercoated rearsets/pegs black.

Air shifter runs off of the co2 bottle seen in the swingarm and will allow for at least 200 shifts before needing to be refilled.  You can also use the integrated tank in the swingarm if you can find room on the bike for an air compressor, but space is limited.  that is why I went with the bottle instead.  You can refill it at any sporting goods store that sells paint ball stuff for a few dollars.  The air shifter has an on/off switch.  When it is off, the horn button is the horn button.  When switched on, the horn button becomes the shift button.  1/4 turn throttle installed.

Swingarm is all aluminum with upper and under bracing From McIntosh and came with new pivot bearings installed.  As mentioned before, it has an integrated air tank for use with a compressor system.  The arm cost about $2,000.00.

Soupy's lowering links that are lowered for the stance that I wanted.  They have a couple of inches left to go up or down to suit your needs or style.

I don't remember what brand the chain is, but it is meant for drag racing and does not have O rings, and the rear sprocket is from Sidewinder +4 teeth from stock for better acceleration and carries their lifetime warranty.

The rear tire is a Shinko Hookup Drag Radial that has just enough tread for the street  It has about 200 miles on it and only a couple short burnouts.  It is very soft compound meant for the track.

Rear tail section is from Airtech and is much longer than stock.  I spent many hours re-working it to make it fit and to match the stock paint color as closely as I could.  Also added the yellow "CBR 1000RR" decals to match the stock paint scheme.  The tail section and rear fender that came with the swingarm are the only parts that aren't in factory paint.

Rear shock is a Penske with half of the stock travel and sprung for a 175 pound rider.  It has less than 100 miles on it.  Completely adjustable and rebuildable with a remote gas charged reservoir hidden under the subframe.

Stock subframe was modified to use as a tray to hold electronics and is all tig welded aluminum powdercoated black to match bike frame. 

Motor is completely stockinternally.  I added a shorty exhaust that exits low on the right side.  Stock exhaust was under the seat and exited under the tail light, but that area was needed for the lowering job.  Dynojet Power Commander was added to get the air/fuel ratio correct with the new exhaust.  It is loud because it had a baffle in the pipe, but made more HP on the dyno with the baffle removed.  I still have the baffle if you want it, but I left it out and the bike is tuned for use without it.  With the baffle in, the bike lost 11hp.  When the stock exhaust is removed, there is an air servo baffle thingey in the stock system that will put the motor into "limp mode".  I had a computer chip custom made by a guy who is an electrical engineer to avoid this problem.  You can read about it on 1000rr,net.

Everything else on the motor is completely stock, so if you only want to drag race it, I would recommend a lock up clutch and a turbo kit if you wanna be a baller.

Rear turn signals were removed and are integrated into the new tail light to keep everything bright and street legal.

I am sure I forgot a few things, and like I said, I have many but not all of the receipts.

Please do not ask what kind of times or speeds it runs at the track because I never ran it.  Only attended a test and tune to dial in the kill time on the air shifter.   I estimate with a good rider it would run low 9's high 8's conservatively.

All together, I have the $14000.00 for a new bike and $6000.00 in parts.  It is a 2006, but it has under 2,000 miles on it so I think the price is fair for what you will be getting.

I can help load the bike for shipping but the shipping arrangements are the responsibility of the buyer. Cash only. Bike is for sale locally and I reserve the right to end the auction at any time.

  Overseas buyers welcome.

Feel free to ask any questions that were not answered in the description.