2002 Kawasaki Klr 650 Green/silver 11.5k Miles Used, But Far Better Than New on 2040-motos
Kawasaki KLR tech info
Kawasaki KLR description
OK, so you can find a used 2002 KLR650 for around $2K, but let me tell you why this KLR650 is better than a new KLR650. It's all in the farkles. In case you're new to the KLR650 world, a farkle is a modification which improves the bike, and let me tell you, the stock KLR650 is in need of improvement. You should also know that I've gone through everything on this bike and made sure it's in perfect working order. The gas tank, cap, petcock, have been completely disassembled and cleaned. The front forks were flushed and filled with new top grade fork oil. Oil filter change and left side engine gaskets new. All brake lines drained, flushed and replaced with dot 4 brake fluid. Rear wheel bearing replaced with fresh grease along with the cush dampner. Brake pads all the way around are new. This bike is reliable, starts every time and ready for a huge adventure!
I was a helicopter mechanic in the Marine Corps so rest assured the work I've done is professional. I've given explanations below to the more significant improvements (farkles):
$305: MEFO explorer 99 tires front and rear, with less than $1K on them. Simply put, the stock Dunlops that come on these bikes, suck. This was hands down the best upgrade I made to the KLR and it now feels downright nimble. The German made MEFO's are considered by many to be the best on/off tire in the world.
$300: Custom made dual bucket seat from Terry seats. it took about 4 hours of riding to figure out that I never wanted to ride on a stock seat again in my life. This custom made dual bucket seat is the most comfortable seat available for the KLR650, especially if you ride 2-up.
$400: Progressive rear shock: The stock rear shock absorber is rated for little more than 200lbs, so if you're riding 2-up or with lots of gear, an upgrade is a necessity, not a luxury. This is a top of the line adjustable shock.
$133: sprockets and chain with taller gearing for less RPMs at higher speeds. I forget what sprocket numbers I went to, but it is now just right. Off the line is still great, but when cruising at highway speeds, the engine runs at lower rpms, less vibration.
$80: Push to cancel turn signal harness. The stock turn signal switch on this bike requires you to manually find center. Now this sounds easy, but with gloves on, I found it maddening. You can also easily flash high beams & turn off headlights.
$261: 320mm Front brake disc enlargement, Galfer kit. Much better stopping power than stock brakes.
$30: 1.5" handle bar risers were a must since I'm 6' tall. It makes your riding position far more comfortable.
$28: Upgraded rectangular mirrors that actually hold the angle you set them to.
$16: Mirror vibration dampers so you can actually see who's behind you, not merely a blurry thing that looks something like a semi-rig.
$31: Extended and beefier shifter pedal. This makes a world of difference in comfort for me, having size 12 feet.
$42: Clutch lever extension on the engine. This makes pulling the clutch about 30% easier and was a significant improvement for long rides.
$169: Front fender/brace & fork brace. This firmed up the bike in corners and at high speeds. The stock fender is like a big sail that wags around over 50mph. I installed a new fender & lowered it to sit just above the wheel as you can see in the photos. Now the bike is rock solid at higher speeds & the lower fender position allows more air to hit the radiator, keeping the engine cooler.
$224: Front progressive shock spring and intiminator added to front forks. Vastly improves diving on stops and helps maintain control over rough roads or moguls. The front end is now so much better than stock.
$50: Dynjet carb jetting kit, improved power.
Those are the most significant improvements, but there are so many more:
$7 Magnetic drain plug, $160 Lithium ion battery, $19 Uni Foam air filter, $43 rear brake pedal bracket, $40 rear master cylinder bracket, $43 Stainless foot pedals, $28 Rear wheel bearing kit, $32 cush drive damper, $125 Thermo-Bob temp stabilizer, $168 FMF SS header pipe, $140 Center stand, $30 adjustable main carb jet, $80 replacement SS bolts for 95% of the bike, $24 Drill through sub-frame kit, $40 Side stand pad, $96 Bark buster Jet hand guards, $20 Oury light grey hand grips, $138 Doohickey kit Eagle Mike, $30 rear break pads, $30 Brass choke plunger (replaced cheap plastic one), $30 Milled aluminum choke lever and housing, $20 Sylvania ultra bright headlight.
Over $3,700 in upgrades alone and all work done within the last 6 months.
I also made a few improvements to the bike which didn't cost anything:
More holes in the air intake to allow more air flow to carb, removed the kill switches which kill the engine when the kick stand is down, starting when the clutch lever is not pulled, I have modified the front tank fairings to attach with SS bolts from the outside, etc.
I have over $6,000 invested in this bike to get it exactly right, and that doesn't include labor. I also have a metal milk crate with custom brackets for shopping around town and many, many extras including: engine gaskets, fork oil, spare SS bolts, extra headlight bulbs, spare clutch and brake levers and more.
If you're ready for the KLR650 adventure, look no further.
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Kawasaki KLR for Sale
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